"Way to go Ron, tell it like it is!"

"And that's what I ended up doing. I'll have to measure it but it's roughly two areas of 1" wide and about 1/2 or maybe 3/4" deep to clear the brackets that hold down the skins."

"Torsten if I recall correctly, when he was here he told me to cut out that area for clearance, not to cut slots in it."

"I am at the stage where I'd like to match drill he window. In order to position it correctly one needs to drill two slits in the upper rear section to clear some aluminum bracket. How did you guys locate the correct position for the cut?"

"Thanks Jan. I'll try to figure out which method to use and let you know how it went. I'll try to get pictures.   Jorge"

"One way would be to sand it dull on the inside.  Then buy, West System epoxy resin at a boat supply store.  Also get their black tint and tint it after mixing it.  Brush it on the inside of the part and it will be a structural coat…"

"Jan,   I bought the fairing some weeks ago and am close to installing it. What is the best way to handle the looks from the inside? My interior is black and the fairing is white. I'm concerned if I paint it black on the inside before…"

"Very nicely done Ron.  I just came back from flying my Viking for 5 hours and it was fun.  Flew to Swansborough NC and back.  2.5 hrs each way.    Jan"

"Wow! What a great lookin' airplane, Ron. Really like the paint job, and that Viking installation looks much better than the Rotax. Also like the way you're attaching the cowl - horizontally by hinge pins, vertically with what looks like…"

"If I recall correctly, it was $250.  Drop him an email, he is a real fine airplane builder himself, very nice guy."